At last we arrived at the entrance to the park. You can drive for hundreds of miles in Australia visiting park upon park because that's just about all some of this continent is good for, at least, that's what the whitefella reckons, though the blackfella knows exactly how to exist on the land and how to deal with the critters, it's just that the whitefella hasn't stopped to listen.
Kakadu is the traditional home of two aboriginal tribes (both have names with double consonants, which means my brain won't remember them) and today it's jointly managed by the traditional owners and the Australian government. You can travel out east as far as the East Alligator River and after that it's Arnhem land and you need a permit to enter, though that's changing as well, which I'll also write about in the next few weeks.
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