We broke the journey for lunch at St Alban's, which lies on the McDonald River. This is the Settlers' Inn; an 1836 establishment full of dark nooks and crannies, an old gilt cash register and a series of home-made cakes under glass domes. They keep rainbow lorikeets in an aviary out the back, which seems odd given that nature has provided them with exactly the same.
Lunch was courgette and spinach frittata with a side order of pesky, annoying flies, and a toddler climbing on me performing elbowlarynxus. Not exactly leisurely, but pleasant all the same.
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